Dry Fitting The Motor

I came to the conclusion that 3/8″ PCB was not the right material for my bracket mock-ups because 3/8″ steel will be unnecessarily heavy and more difficult to weld, which could result in a much higher fabrication cost. I decided to go with 1/4″ Lexan because it’s super easy drill and cut with ordinary power tools.


With a complete intermediate drive shaft mock-up and a partial end plate motor mount, I’ve gone about as far as I can go with my Lexan mockup brackets. It’s time to load this thing into the engine bay to get more precise measurements.

20140831_084713Here you see the motor + transmission assembly (with lexan mock-up brackets in place) descending into the engine bay. It was necessary to remove the hood to get sufficient clearance.
20140831_104044Admittedly, I had some anxiety because I had never thought to perform a detailed measurement of the amount of space in the engine compartment and compare it with the known dimensions of the AC-75 motor. I had assumed that there was plenty of room because the Warp motors I have seen in other installs appeared to have plenty of room. This is a perfect fit.

Next up: I need to complete the mock-up for the driver-side motor mount. There is also the issue of the CanEV bolt hole not aligning with the rear mount bracket.

Intermediate Drive Shaft Bracket Mockup

I went to the local plastics shop and picked up a nice piece of 3/8″ PVC to use for my intermediate drive shaft bracket mock-up.

20140704_175335The PVC sheet material is easy to shape and cut with a jig saw and yet it is also hefty enough that it can act as a stand-in for the steel bracket which will take its place later. I will deliver the perfected mock-up to a fabrication specialist.

Problem: The motor’s electrical wiring is not in a very convenient location. I’d like to attach a plate to the end of this motor which reaches out to stabilize the other end of my bracket plate.

I can rotate the motor 45° or 90° counter-clockwise to make life easier here. But in the process of making life easier I will need to disassemble the transmission, clutch, and adapter plate, which makes life less easy. 


Intermediate Drive Shaft

As I mentioned earlier, I am going to need to fabricate a custom bracket for the intermediate drive shaft.

intermediate drive shaft
Intermediate Drive Shaft

To get started I inserted the intermediate drive shaft into the trans-axle only to discover a new problem.

Drive Shaftc Conflict
Drive Shaftc Conflict

I used a sharpie to outline where the drive shaft flange conflicts with the adapter plate.  I emailed my contact at Canada EV to let him know about the design flaw. He offered to modify the adapter for me if I want to ship it back to his shop.

I declined and opted to modify this myself with a handheld angle grinder.

adapter plate modified
Intermediate Drive Shaft Modification

New Clutch

I sent the clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel to a shop to be refurbished. They look practically brand new.

clutch, pressure plate, flywheel
Refurbished Clutch, Pressure Plate, and Flywheel

As I was gathering the gear for the installation I realized that the flywheel and pressure plate don’t use garden variety bolts. After trawling through the selection at a few local hardware shops I came to the conclusion that I’ll need to find the original bolts or I was going to need to spend $50+ for a new set.

After a few hours of rummaging through my storage shed I found that the guys that removed my engine for me did me the favor of saving my crucial bolts and putting them in a ziplock back for me. Wow!

flywheel flange bolts
Flywheel Flange Bolts

I invited a friend over to help out with the clutch installation. This was new territory for me and I wanted the benefit of his experience. He gave me some helpful pointers on installing the flywheel bearing and techniques for torquing everything just right.

new clutch install
New Clutch Installed

It’s starting to come together. Here’s the new clutch assembly with the Canada EV adapter plate installed on my new AC-75.


Spring Cleaning

This morning I took the filthy transmission to the shop for a rebuild. On the way home I stopped to pick up a gallon of citrus cleaner, a large squirt bottle, some brushes, and a few rolls of shop towels.

dirty engine compartment
Dirty Engine Compartment

Considering that this is a twenty three year old car, this engine compartment is not very filthy. The transmission was very greasy and oily and so is a lot of the gear underneath, such as the shift linkages and some of the undercarriage where oil had splattered and adhered with dirt.

clean engine compartment
Cleaned Engine Compartment

It’s good to have a clean space to work.

I’m considering stripping down the rusty area under where the battery tray was and put some fresh red paint.

275 Pounds Shed

This is an estimate. The long block with the intake plenum, exhaust header, fuel rail, and accessories may even be near 300 pounds. (The 90 pound transmission stays.)

engine removal
Engine Coming Out

Upon removing the engine, I learned about the intermediate drive shaft.

intermediate drive shaft
Intermediate Drive Shaft

The intermediate drive shaft connects the driver side axle shaft to the trans-axle which is on the passenger side of the engine bay. The intermediate drive shaft mounts on the transmission at one end and bolts to the engine block on the other. This is a bit of fabrication that I had not been thinking about.

127 Pounds Shed

During the last week I pulled the fuel tank, and the cooling system.

gas tank
Gas Tank Removed
  • gas tank (and filler neck) 29 lbs
  • 13.5 gallons of gasoline 82 lbs
  • radiator (and coolant) 16 lbs

I put this up on craigslist.org and got no signs of interest. So, I threw it all in a dumpster.

51 Pounds Shed

I spent yesterday hanging out with the KGCC guys showing of their EVs at Balboa Park. The e-tegra has to be ready for next year.
Today I pulled out the exhaust system.

Exhaust System

I put it up for sale on craigslist.org and got an inquiry within an hour.

The Front End

The front end work is done. I have installed the new bearings, ball joints, struts, brakes, control arms, and axle-shafts.

front suspension
Front Suspension Reassebly

I did not install the new sway bar. The new sway bar is a slightly different shape from the factory sway bar and I could not get it past the exhaust pipe. I decided to delay the sway bar install until after I’ve removed the exhaust system in the next phase of the project.

integra front end

Integra Front End

It’s a satisfying feeling to button up this phase of the project and take it for a spin around the neighborhood.

The first time I drove it around the block I was sure there was something wrong because of the road noise. I put it back up on jackstands and double checked everything. It was all good. It seems that I’ve never driven a car with all the polyurethane bushings and necromancer struts. On top of that, without the back seat and rear carpeting I could hear every little bit of sand kicked up from the road.

Well that’s good. I wanted a stiff suspension that will perform well with the additional weight of a battery pack. As far as the road noise, I will address that after I’ve built the rear battery boxes and installed soundproofing.


The Front Suspension

I just got the front bearings and struts back from the shop.

front in progress
Front Suspension In Progress

Once I’ve got the front put back together it I’ll drive it to work for a week to make sure the gas tank is as empty as possible before I need to drain it.